Reloading (Ballistomania)

As you toy with the idea of reloading, here's some things that will help your journey. Reloading can be frustrating if you aren't sitting with a group of crusty veteran relaoders willing to tell you how to avoid the mistakes. Or you can do it the hard way. Some of you may ask, "Is there another way than the hard way?" To you, I doff my cap.

For this article, we are only looking at manufactured ammo from some reputable company like Federal, PMC, Winchester, etc. We are not suggesting using high $, match grade ammo for these initial measurements. Besides trying to keep the learning curve as flat as possible, we are also recommending inexpensive options. Our suggestion is to use inexpensive items when you start. If you invest in the highest quality items, and you don't end up embracing the madness that is reloading, you will lose your shirt on trying to resell the high $ items.

For the rest of this article, refer to this google sheet. The links below are mostly to MidwayUSA.com. I have purchased many of my tools from Amazon.com. Nothing against Amazon. Just want you to know there are other vendors.

Recommendations:

1. Use google sheets to capture your data. If you don't have a portable computer, you can use your smart phone, but it may be a easier to just use pen and paper/small notebook.
2. Copy the google sheets tabs and paste them into a google sheets account that you can edit. The linked sheets cannot be edited.
3. Measure some things before you go to the range.
4. Measure some things at the range.
5. Measure some things after you return from the range.
6. If you have a smart phone, find free apps for the following:
   1. Weather app
   2. Compass
   3. Bubble level

Tools: (if you can, have these)

1. Head space gauge (I use RCBS Precision Mic for .308, but you can use from any manufacture such as Redding)
2. Ogive measurement (I use Hornady ...Forster makes an awesome one called Datum Dial)
3. Seating depth (I use Hornady Bullet Comparator)
4. Anvil Base (I use Hornady Anvil Base)
5. Calipers...digital or analog. (I use this one from Amazon, but you can go crazy and get a Mitutoyo with NIST certification if you like. Just sell them to me for $40 when you quit reloading.)
6. Eventually, you'll want a scale. (I use this one from Amazon)

So, if you buy 1-5, you have already spent $160 not counting shipping and tax. And you haven't measured a single bullet yet. But as this effort has been described, "sweet, sweet madness" demands the kibble.

The process: Before going to the range

1. Leave the bullets in the box. Pull each bullet out as you measure it and then return it the same slot.
2. Measure the bullets at the ogive - I suggest this video of Vaughn Precision and this one from Panhandle Precision - for a tutorial
   1. Write down (or type in google sheet listed) for Bullet 1 -20
3. Measure the headspace of the bullet.
   1. Write down (or type in google sheet listed) for Bullet 1 -20
4. You should have something like this below: (measurements are not representative of any round. Fictitious numbers for example)

Now, take your permanent marker, and label each round, 1 through 20. If you have access to a chronograph, write down the velocities. If you don't, nothing to worry about.

The process: At the range (if you have a chronograph, ask the Range Officer (RO) if you can use it. Don't assume.)

When you go to the range, use your weather app to get temperature, humidity, air pressure, wind direction, wind speed and wind gust speeds. Write them down in your notebook or screen shot the information.  Use your compass app to determine your firing direction.  On the shooting bench, use the bubble level app to determine how flat the surface is. This may or may not affect your shooting.  Now you are ready to fire at least 10 rounds and KEEP THE BRASS. If possible, try to return the brass to its original place in the box. You may need to let the RO know that you will be picking up your brass. If you have a chronograph, even the one that retains your shots, I suggest writing each one down after the shot. Just a thought.

The process: After going to the range

When you return home, you will measure the head space again for each brass cartridge. The greatest number of "Head Space After Fired" is the closest to the actual head space in your rifle. Some brass may need to be fired multiple times to get the most accurate reading.

Example: Your unfired round has a headspace of 0. You fire the round. You measure the head space. The headspace is now 5. That's going to be exceptionally close to the actual head space in your rifle. Semi -auto rifles will typically have larger headspace compared to bolt action rifles.

Now What?

Well, you have brass from your rifle. You measured before and after. If you used a chronograph, you have an idea of the velocity for that manufacturer's round from your rifle under the atmospheric conditions provided by your phone's apps. If you really like the particular round, e.g., Federal Gold Medal Match with Sierra Match King 168gr, you'll be able to a) reproduce it; b) tailor that round to your rifle. Keeping within SAAMI spec, you can see if a little more (.1 or .2 grains) or a little less powder works best for your rifle. You seat the bullet a little more (.001 or .002 for example) or a little less to determine what gives you the best precision from your rifle. But best of all, you have real, accurate, and usable data to improve your shooting and to understand your rifle.